We have been fortunate enough to witness Christmas a few times in our village. This year Kimberly's mom joined us. It was great to have her along. Christmas here brings to mind those signs that I've seen in people's yards, "Keep Christ in Christmas." Here, there is very little emphasis on capitalist gift giving. It's very much a religious holiday and observance, which has been particularly interesting for us to witness as Jews. This year, Hanukah came before Christmas. I know only one Jewish woman in the village, and she's originally from New York! It would be an understatement to say that our religious affiliation is a minority here... Well, we celebrated a very make-shift Hanukah this year. We were resourceful in terms of using what we had to work with, which, by the way, people are so good at doing here! We used a candle as our menorah. We found a spinning top in the nearby tienda that the children here use to play another game. And, believe it or not, we found foil wrapped chocolate in a different tienda so that was perfect Hanukah "gelt." At home, we really enjoyed lighting our "menorah," playing the dreidel game, and singing the traditional Hanukah song.
Christmas starts with the posadas. Las Posadas is a nine-day celebration in the evenings beginning Dec. 16 and ending Dec. 24. The nine-days represent the nine months of the pregnancy of Mary carrying Jesus. We heard that Las Posadas is often celebrated in people's homes, but in our barrio (neighborhood) everyone gathers at the local church. There is a large nativity scene and people enjoy gathering under the lights strung on the large, outdoor tree and the colorful flags. Women hold and rock the baby Jesus, and for me, the most significant thing to witness was different family members (who take turns on different nights) handing out candy, fruit, yogurt, and other miscellaneous items to everyone present. People gather in a wide circle with bags or baskets to receive the offerings. We went to the church on the night that our close friends did the offering. We drove downtown before the posada began in the back of our friend José's pickup truck to get a couple huge sacks of hicamas. It gave me great pleasure to help pass them out and make individual, meaningful contact with many of the village people who were there. After the offerings, the children gathered to break open the piñatas. What a festive experience that was not only for them, but for the adults watching too!
A couple of days before Christmas, the zocola was shining with lights, colorful tinsel, pointsettia flowers, fireworks for sale, and everything needed to make a nativity scene, including lots of moss! On Christmas eve, people from our barrio gathered at the local church. After the three kings and angels made their way to the church with a festive band, the group followed and walked together. It was wonderful to witness groups of people from all the different barrio churches walking toward the central cathedral led by the three kings and angels marching with music and bright "estrellas" carried aloft. Imagine the feeling of community invoked by looking out and seeing groups of candle flames converging on the same place. The mass started once all the village people were gathered together on the lawn in front of the main church. We left at that point, but we heard about the parties that continued throughout the night. We certainly heard the fireworks going for many hours!
And then came New Year's! We enjoyed shopping for food in the center ahead of time. It was unfortunate that Brian was home sick in bed, but Lea and I joined our close friends and their extended family for our traditional dinner together in a home that's partially outdoors and built of raw cement. Our friends cooked up bistek, nopales (cactus), and onions on a large, flat grill. All the stuffings were delicious inside hot tortillas with homemade guacamole. Then we shared a bottle of champagne that we bought. I got a sense from them that this was special since champagne is a luxury they can't afford. We especially had fun with the pop of the bottle opening! And then we shared grapes. It is traditional for each person to eat twelve grapes, making a wish with each one for the new year. And then of course at midnight was a huge fireworks display that we watched from our deck (which Brian even got out of bed for)! Again, the sound of the fireworks went throughout the night. Mexicans are certainly into noise and celebrations. Whenever there is an excuse for a party, they certainly seem to take advantage of it!
And it doesn't end there. On January 6th it is Dia de Reyes, or three King's Day. It is the 12th day after Christmas, when the Magi arrived bearing gifts for baby Jesus. In Mexico children receive gifts on this day, brought by the three kings. Some children receive gifts from both Santa Claus and the Kings, but Santa is seen as an imported custom, and the traditional day for Mexican children to receive gifts is January 6. And then of course there are the parties on this day! Many people in the village open their homes and share lots of food and festivity with their neighbors, friends, and family.
See our photos and a video below to have the festivities come to life for you!
Celebrating Hanukah! |
A video of our Hanukah celebration!
Virgin de Guadalupe's are seen throughout the village. This time of year they are decorated with flowers and lights. |
This is a family we stayed with in Mexico City when my mom arrived. They were wonderful! |
Lea and Kimberly in the zocolo (center). |
Brian and Lea in the zocolo. |
Us having lunch with Kimberly's mom, Reggi, in the central market. |
Muchas piñatas! |
Moss sold in the center to create the nativity scenes. |
The piñata game at our local church for a posada. |
Our friend Jose. Happy time! |
Baby Jesus' inside the local church. |
The three kings inside our local church. |
The three kings leading our barrio's procession. |
One of the angels during the procession. |
Another procession from another village that we saw as we walked. |
Other kings from another village. |
One of the large stars. |
And another! |
There was a party at Lea's school. Here is an angel. |
A parade in the center with children dressed as angels. |
A girl from Lea's school dressed in traditional clothing for their Christmas celebration. |
The children in a holiday performance at the school that Kimberly teaches at. |
Kimberly with a bottle of champagne for our New Year's Celebration. |
Our friend Feliciano grilling bistek. |
And here's the extended family that has really welcomed us into their homes, and their hearts! |
Santa and a reindeer on top of a house. You don't see much of this, but of course there's some North American influence. |
The holiday flags and lanterns show holiday cheer throughout the village. We know how blessed we are to be here and have these experiences. Thanks for taking the time to learn about our journey! |
No comments:
Post a Comment