Lea Dances for the Mexican Revolution!

Lea was selected from her school to participate in a community-wide presentation in recognition of the Mexican Revolution. She was thrilled to have the opportunity and we are beyond proud of her! Lea practiced for weeks with her schoolmates before the big event which took place on November 20. It was the week of Thanksgiving in the US. Who would have guessed that instead, we'd be celebrating the Mexican Revolution? There was a lot of preparation ahead of time in terms of getting her "costume" together and preparing for the big day, which included our close friend Aurora putting Lea's hair up in tight french braids with special ribbons.

Many schools in the area gathered at the largest primary school in the center of the village for the dances in an outdoor courtyard. Before the start of the dances, all the children gathered together and stood with their schoolmates, while the mayor and others spoke about the Mexican Revolution and what it means for the Mexican people. There were even horses who walked in the courtyard to start the festivities! Many of the others school's dances were before Lea's, so we anxiously awaited her debut in a large, public Mexican festivity. Below is a short video of the dance and some photos to go along with it. How exciting it was for her to be a part of something like this here in Tepoztlán, Mexico.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnAY992DzMo&feature=youtu.be&t=28s

Aurora does Lea's french braid.

Here she is in her costume.

At Lea's school the morning of the festivities. They usually do this march on Monday mornings at the beginning of the school day, but the march took place on this morning too.

Lea with some of her classmates at her school (and her teacher behind her) the morning of the big event. Only one other girl pictured (Abi) was also in the dance (to the right).

Lea was so happy and excited to be selected for the dance!

All the kids gathered together at the school to take a photo before walking down to the center of town where the dance took place.


The horses that started the festivities mentioned above.

Many of the kids have their eyes closed for the photo because they were facing the strong sun. Lea was still smiling :-)


This gives you a sense of the number of people at the event even though it was another group dancing.

Lea's school's dance. You can barely make her out crouched in the front on the right hand side.


What a fabulous experience for Lea, and for us too!

Corn Cook Out!

The family that we spend a lot of time with (Jose, Aurora, Lissett and Josecito)  are very close to one another, so it's really nice to be with them and feel like a part of their close circle. We met them the first time we came to Tepoztlan in 2009, and shortly after we met, they took us in like we were part of their family. How incredible it has been to experience life as an insider as they shlep us around to all kinds of things that outsiders would never otherwise have the opportunity to experience.

We drove with our friends in their pick up truck (with most of us in the open back) up to the mountains for a corn cook out. We picked up a huge bag of corn en route from a friend, Adrián, who has a milpa (corn field) and met us on the side of the road. The wind blew through our hair and on our faces. The ride felt rugged with the jerks of the truck as we made our way on the uneven, back dirt road. We talked, laughed, and felt carefree...  Once we arrived, I was taken back by the beauty of the place; an open field dotted with yellow flowers all around, surrounded by the glory and strength of the mountains. Warm and sunny with a lovely breeze.

We loaded off the old pick up truck (along with the huge bag of corn) and gathered firewood close by. The kids ran off together and picked flowers while our close friend (Jose) got the fire started with Brian. Others pitched in to help as we fanned the fire to keep it going. Tortillas (and great food to stuff inside of them!) were set up on the back of the truck.

As we were collecting firewood, a few cows passed by --- who knows where they came from? You can see loose cows, bulls, and horses just wandering in the streets free here. Most likely they made their way out of their fenced in area.

There was more corn than we could possibly eat, fresh off the fire. We peeled off the burnt husks and thoroughly enjoyed the "elote" either plain, or with the many possible toppings, including mayonnaise, lime, cheese, and chili powder.

Even though we were stuffed with all the corn and the other food we played running games. Musical chairs and a kind of tag game were really light hearted and active. Kites that the kids from here had made were also flown. When we loaded back in the truck and headed back to the village and to our homes,  I had the thought that this is why we're here... We're getting more and more tastes of the Mexican daily life as time goes by. This is just one example of something we did that made me think, Wow, they sure do know how to live here!

Lea with her friend Abby in the back of the truck. Abby is in Lea's class at school and a cousin of her really close friends.

Unloading off the truck.

Brian preparing the fire with a few of the women.

One of the cows that passed by in the field.

A really cool grasshopper that we spotted.

Our really good friend Jose with his daughter Lissett who is two years older than Lea. They are like sisters.

The corn being cooked in open fire.

Brian and Lea enjoying their corn!

Brian is definitely one happy camper!

Abby enjoying her corn.

Lea flying a kite.

And there it is, with a couple of the other kids!

Playing musical chairs...


And the game in action!
                                         
Losers of the relay race had to do push-ups.

Jose and Lea.

Lea with her close friends (from left to right) Jose, Lisset, Chano (Abby's brother) and Abby.

A Story I Wrote: My Life as a Mom and a Teacher

Many of you have already read this story, but for those of you who haven't, it is about my being the mom of a privileged (now 9 year old) daughter, and my being an art teacher at a low income public school in Madison, WI. Although the public school teacher identity doesn't apply to me currently here in Mexico, I am faced with many of the same issues because many of the children that I come in contact with come from low income families. What I have learned by living here, though, is that many of the people don't have much in terms of money and things, but what they are rich in is spirit. I feel that we, as Americans, have a great deal to learn from people in developing countries in terms of the beauty of the simple things in life, and simply enjoying being in the present moment and prioritizing relationships with people over work and things.

I thought I'd post this story on the blog because in many ways it does apply to my experience here in Mexico too. It's a different story here, but similar in many ways...


_________YELLOW FLOWERS____________

When I was a little girl I dreamt of rocking my baby in a rocking chair. Back and forth, calm, not a worry in the world.  When I grew up, I became a teacher first—and then a mom. I had no idea it would be so hard to try make sense of those two worlds.

Walking down the streets of NYC as a kid, I passed a homeless man laying over the sidewalk grate wrapped in a blanket so old that the fluffy white stuffing was coming through the seams. I hesitated. I couldn’t keep walking, although the people around me marched on. I was taught in my Jewish tradition about tikkun olam, or repairing the world, and that stuck.

I guess it’s no coincidence that I ended up teaching art at an elementary school here in Madison that is filled with kids who are at or below the poverty level, about equal proportions of African American, Hispanic, and White.

My students seem to open up to me in the creative environment of the art room. As they press clay through their fingers, or contemplate where their next brush stroke will be, an emotional fountain opens and they begin to TALK.

One of the things I love to do with my daughter in the spring is count how many yellow flowers we see on our walks. I can imagine her recounting the tale to her art teacher.

My students talk a lot about their lives, too. One African American girl wept in the corner as she told me that her dad was in jail ‘til she was 18, and he was far away so she barely ever sees him. My eyes swelled with tears as she tried to get words out through her own. I can envision the kid’s I teach pulling at their dad’s pants legs as their little bodies wail on the floor in a crying fit ‘cause the jail guard has blown the whistle which lets them know that visiting time is up.

A colleague told me to keep three kindergarten boys in for recess because they spent art class punching each other, kicking, screaming, and throwing chairs. Instead of having them sit with their heads down, I asked if they heard how absolutely fabulous they were from anyone today. They looked at me like I was crazy.

I asked them what they wanted to be when they grew up. Two said cops and the third, a jail guard. I got a picture of what many of my students experience walking down the streets of their neighborhoods. They’re not counting yellow flowers, but admiring the cop who drives slowly by every 15 minutes. He’s looking pretty good—he’s in charge.

Not in a million years would my daughter have chosen one of these professions. She wants to be a “pop star”. I told the boys that I believed they could be anything they wanted to be. But they first need to believe in themselves. As they left, they gave me full body hugs.

Another boy talks about what it was like living in the homeless shelter; how he had to leave most of his stuff behind and how he couldn’t sleep at night because it was so loud. My daughter has mentioned how scared she gets at night sleeping in her own room ‘cause it’s so quiet. I’ve played soothing music to keep her monsters away, but they’re obviously very different than Marcus’s monsters that he’s experienced in the shelter.

I also have a hard time saying “no” to my daughter, or clearing her room of so many toys and books that it’s hard to decide what she can play with.

I see kid’s heading out to the playground at school on frigid cold days with coats that their little bodies are lost in ‘cause they’re way too big.  My daughter has always had a warm coat, mittens, hat, snow pants, and boots that fit her each winter.

My daughter goes to school most days with a sandwich on organic, whole grain bread, an apple (not too big that her hands can’t fit around it), and a fruit leather. I know many of the kids I teach eat chocolate bars for breakfast on the weekend, when they don’t get breakfast at school.

Some kids fall asleep in my classroom ‘cause they’re sleeping on the floor of a living room with a drunk boyfriend of mom's walking around them all night. In contrast, I feel guilty if I don’t have time to stop at the co-op for organic milk and instead, buy milk at the Stop-N-Go, when I know Coke is a staple in many of my kid’s diets.

Last year, a 2nd grade girl (same age as my daughter) greets me with open arms and says, “Ms. Wilson, can I have a hug? My sister was just shot and killed. And my cousin was with her and was also killed.”  She wore a black t-shirt with the words “rest in peace” with their names and photos of her sister’s and cousin’s faces. 

My daughter has her own frequent flyer accounts.  Most of the kids I teach can only imagine what it’s like to fly in a plane from movies they’ve seen.

Many of the five year olds I teach come to school not knowing the alphabet. We’ve recited the alphabet to our daughter practically since the day she was born. If I were a single mom working two jobs to make ends meet, could I come home at night and read to my kid?

This year, I reached a 4th grade boy. He comes from the south side of Chicago. His single mom wanted a better life for him and his sister so they moved to Madison. He’d act out, stomp around the room, mess with the other kids, but when he got that I cared about him in spite of his anger, he showed me a sweet smile and let me know that he wanted to learn from me.

One day I had to ask him to sit in the hallway because he was disrupting the class. We talked and I told him he could draw in the hall. He drew a picture of the two of us as stick figures with voice bubbles. In the picture, I said “Try your best.” He said, “I can’t,” and in reply, mine said,  “I know you can.”

His family suddenly moved mid-year. Were they evicted for not paying rent? I don’t know.

I’m going to give his mom a call and see if I can take him downtown with my daughter one Saturday morning, just to be together… to talk, to laugh, to walk, maybe count yellow flowers as we walk; just to be together… And perhaps, with both of them, not a worry in the world.




Day of the Dead / Dia de los Muertos

Dia de los Muertos is a Mexican holiday celebrated throughout Mexico and around the world. The holiday focuses on gatherings of families and friends to pray for and remember friends and family members who have died. It is particularly celebrated in Mexico, where it is a national holiday. The celebration takes place on November 1 and 2, in connection with the Catholic holidays of All Saints' Day and All Souls' Day. Traditions connected with the holiday include building private altars honoring the deceased using sugar skulls, marigolds, and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed. Visiting graves with these as gifts is common. People also leave possessions of the deceased.
The Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico can be traced back to its indigenous pagan cultures. Rituals celebrating the deaths of ancestors had been observed by these civilizations perhaps for as long as 2,500–3,000 years.

We had the wonderful opportunity of celebrating the day of the Dead, or Dia de los Muertos in Mexico. What a fascinating experience for us! We had heard about the holiday, but to experience it first hand was truly remarkable.

A few days before the holiday the downtown area started filling up with marigold flowers and large, green squashes that are carved, similar to our tradition of the Halloween Jack-o-lantern. There were  different images of skulls and skeletons, and on November 1st, we started to see the "ofrendas" (or offerings) in public areas and in homes. These ofrendas are altars that are made to honor the dead. The ofrendas contain the favorite foods and beverages, as well as photos and memorabilia of the departed. One of the most powerful parts of the tradition that we witnessed was the trail of marigold petals coming from the ofrendas (generally in people's homes) leading out their sidewalks and to the street. It was as if the dead were welcomed back to their homes. Imagine most homes in our village with a trail of bright yellow marigold petals leading from their home to the street. It was quit a sight!

Children walk around with "calaveras" or lit, carved green squash the night of Nov. 1 and stop at people's homes to get candy. Generally, a cross and often skeletons are carved into the calavera, and although Mexican tradition is not like Halloween, in recent times, Dia de los Muertos has started to mimic our Halloween tradition, much to the dismay of people following Mexican tradition.

We did do the walk with our daughter and her friends carrying calaveras. There were fires in the streets and people handed out candy to the children and a traditional, hot drink called "pulque" to the adults. The children did have a saying that they recited at doors before receiving candy, but once the streets got really crowded, that seemed to be skipped over. Most children were not dressed in costume, but some were. There were lit images of skulls and skeletons and a joyful presence felt in the streets by many families. 

We also felt honored to visit the large cemetery in our village twice over Dia de los Muertos. It was a big party; lots of people, music, food, and flowers. When we went at night the cemetery was lit up by candlelight too. We really appreciated witnessing the true celebration of loved ones who have died.

It was incredible to experience this holiday first hand. It made me think about how we view death in our country. I think we're much more afraid of death and don't embrace it in the same way that Mexicans do. I was so touched by the beauty of the holiday. It was very powerful to see the dead honored the way in which they were.

I can not take credit for all the photos below. Some were posted online so I think it's OK to share them with you. It has been challenging for me to take photos of strangers because I feel like it's being invasive, and Mexicans don't seem to pose for photos like Americans do. So, it's tricky to even got shots of the people we know. It's important for me to share our experience with you, though, so I'm trying to take photos without invading people's space and privacy too much, and still allowing myself to be in the present moment with my experiences.


Marigolds in the central square.


The beauty of the wisdom of older people here is so striking. There seem to be many more older people out and about in society here and a visible part of daily life. It's really nice to see.


And younger people too! The wide range...



Another view of the central square preparing for the holiday.

And more flowers being sold.





Brian and Lea in the central square with all the marigolds.

What a great sight that I captured! A pretty cool way to transport flowers, huh?

Other goods being sold at the market for Dia de los Muertos.

Dried corn husks to prepare Tomales, a traditional Mexican food that is wrapped in the husks.

"Pan de Muerte" which is special bread for the holiday.

Ceramics sold in the central square at the time of the holiday.

Decorative Skulls.

A show that we saw at the auditorium in the center that was free and open to the public for Dia de los Muertos.

An "ofrenda" or offering that we saw in a store.

The ofrenda at our close friend's home.

Another ofrenda.

And yet another...

The main ofrenda at the school that Kimberly teaches at.

Another ofrenda at the school that Kimberly teaches.
And another one...

An ofrenda that we saw from the street.
Lea receiving food from the ofrenda at her school.



The ofrenda that we created in our home honoring our loved ones who have past.

Marigold petals leading out of a home.

Kimberly with a man by the name of Miguel who does gardening work at her Spanish language school. Kimberly and Lea ran into him at the cemetery. He was selling goods outside with his wife. People here seem to earn money however they can.

The cemetery during the day.

The cemetery at night.

Another view of the cemetery at night. This image gives you a sense of all the energy and the movement going on in the cemetery, which is so drastically different that the cemeteries we've been to in the USA.

Another image of the cemetery during the day.

And another one. Marigolds everywhere!

Tepoz Nieves (the big ice cream shop in town) celebrates Dia de los Muertos!

Green squash sold in the central square to carve "calaveras".
Lea carving her calavera. A big hole is cut in the back for the light to shine through. A long, thin, white candle is placed inside and hangs down from the bottom. A wire holder is tied to the top for the children to carry the calaveras.






Children go from home to home with their lit calaveras on the night of November 1.

A family passing out candy.

Children in the central square.

Children dressed up for Dia de los Muertos, which is controversial.

A skeleton seen at night while we were out going door to door.

Another sign of the holiday.

Another calavera, very well done!


These signs were everywhere. This sign says, "Ours is the day of the dead, not Halloween."

This one says, "No Halloween. Put your gift to the deceased." There were powerful message all around the village that the people would like to maintain the tradition of their holiday, for obvious reasons. What a beautiful tradition the Mexicans have to honor their loved ones who have passed in such a meaningful way.